Protected Tree Permits: Some areas have specific regulations protecting certain species or sizes of trees. You may need a permit to remove or prune these protected trees.
Environmental Permits: In environmentally sensitive areas, such as near wetlands or waterways, you may need permits to remove or prune trees to prevent erosion or protect habitats.
Homeowner's Association (HOA) Approval: If you live in a community with an HOA, you may need approval from the HOA before removing or pruning trees on your property.
Arborist Report: Some municipalities require an arborist report before issuing a permit for tree removal or pruning. The report typically assesses the health and condition of the tree and recommends whether removal or pruning is necessary.
Watering Schedule: Water mature trees about once a week during dry periods, and newly planted trees may need watering two to three times per week. Adjust based on rainfall and soil moisture levels.
Watering Time: Water in the early morning or late evening to minimize evaporation loss.
Watering Depth: Ensure the water reaches the tree's root zone, which is typically 12 to 18 inches deep for mature trees. (A slow controlled drip is the best method)
Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree (but not touching the trunk) to help retain soil moisture.
Avoid Overwatering: Overwatering can be as harmful as under watering. Monitor soil moisture and adjust watering accordingly.
Check Soil Moisture: Use a soil moisture meter or simply dig down a few inches to check soil moisture before watering.
Monitor Tree Health: Watch for signs of under watering (wilting, yellowing leaves) or overwatering (yellowing leaves, root rot) and adjust your watering practices accordingly.
Scratch Test: Use your fingernail or a small knife to scratch the bark on a few small branches. If the tissue underneath is green and moist, the tree is likely still alive. If it is dry and brittle, the tree and/or sections may be dead.
Bud and Bark Inspection: Look closely at the buds and bark of the tree. If the buds are plump and the bark is firm and attached, the tree may be dormant. Dead trees often have brittle or missing buds and loose, peeling bark.
Leaf Inspection: Check the tree for any signs of life, such as leaves or leaf buds. If the tree is leafless and shows no signs of budding during the appropriate season, it may be dead.
Branch Flexibility: Bend a few small branches to see if they are flexible or snap easily. Flexible branches indicate that the tree is still alive, while brittle branches may indicate a dead tree.
Root Examination: Dig gently around the base of the tree to inspect the roots. Healthy roots are firm and white, while dead roots can be mushy and discolored.
If you’re unsure, give us a call!
There are several signs that a tree might be diseased or unhealthy. Here are some common indicators to look out for:
Leaf Discoloration: Leaves that are discolored, yellowing, or have unusual spots, this can be a sign of disease or stress.
Leaf Loss: Excessive leaf loss, especially outside of the normal seasonal cycle, can indicate a problem with the tree's health.
Dead Branches: Dead or dying branches that fail to produce leaves can be a sign of disease or pest infestation.
Cankers: Cankers are areas of dead bark on the trunk or branches and can indicate a fungal or bacterial infection.
Fungal Growth: Mushrooms or other fungal growth on the trunk or around the base of the tree can be a sign of decay inside the tree.
Bark Damage: Damage to the bark, such as cracks, splits, or missing bark, can leave the tree vulnerable to pests, disease, and possible sunburn.
Decay: Soft or crumbly wood, especially near the base of the tree, can indicate internal decay.
Unusual Growth Patterns: Unusual growth patterns, such as lopsidedness or excessive leaning, can indicate structural issues or root problems.
Pest Presence: Presence of pests, such as borers or aphids, can indicate that the tree is under stress and may be susceptible to disease.
Root Problems: Signs of root problems, such as heaving soil, root rot, or visible roots, can indicate an unhealthy tree.
In the valley of California, the best time to plant trees is typically in the fall or early spring. Fall planting allows trees to establish their roots before the onset of hot summer weather, while spring planting takes advantage of milder temperatures and increased rainfall. Avoid planting during the hot summer months, as the stress of transplanting combined with high temperatures can be challenging for newly planted trees. It's also a good idea to check specific planting recommendations for your area and the specific type of tree you plan to plant, as some trees may have different preferences for planting times.